****** - Verified Buyer
4.5
I would give this bike six stars IF there weren’t any problems peculiar to my preferences. First of all, the computer that came with the bike uses kilometers as measurement. Even though as an ex-long distance competitive runner, I know road distances by heart (i.e. 20 K equals 12.4 miles), still it was a hassle as I was peddling to convert kilometers to miles. Perhaps the most aggravating things about this computer is that it DOES NOT keep track of average kilometers per hour, calories expended or distance accumulated for and individual ride. So, if you leave the bike during exercise for more than four minutes, you lose all the information you had up to that point. This problem exists in spite of the fact that the instructions said it does record the information. So, be prepared to record on paper where you left off if you have to leave the bike for that period of time so that when you start recording again during remount, you’ll have the information for the entirety of the trip.Quite a hassle!I might add that Anna, who tech supports for the manufacturer, sent me a new computer that records in miles per hour. However, it has the same deficiencies of the kilometer computer.I have no idea why the crank threaded hole that accepts the pedal shaft came undersized, but it did. I tried to muscle the pedals onto the crank, but knew that if I applied too much force, something would break. This happened with both the supplied pedals and the Look Classic road pedals I installed (pictured). So, being a bike mechanic and having just about every tool imaginable, I used my set of clockwise and counter-clockwise 9/16-20 taps to enlarge the holes to factory specs (this set of tools is available from Amazon). The pedals then were easy to install.As you can see by the picture of the seat post support with seat mounted, I use a road-type seat instead of the supplied fat one that comes with the bike. I use the same sort of seat on all of my road and mountain bikes. Note also that I didn’t mount the seat flush with the top of the seat sliding set since even with the seat support post extended to its maximum distance within the tube, the ideal distance between the top of the seat and the top of the pedal is still too short for me . Even mounting the seat 1/2” higher on the post still leaves me ¾” short of my ideal seat-to-pedal distance (the angle between your thigh and lower leg should be 15 degrees at full extension when the foot is mounted at the top of the pedal). If the distance from the floor to your hip socket exceeds my 38”, you’re going to have to maybe add a spacer and longer bolt between the seat post and the seat sliding set to get the proper distance from the top of the seat to the top of the pedal, which is what I’m planning on doing. You really do need to get this distance correct or face possible injury or wasted energy through inefficient peddling.The tension adjustment is incredibly sensitive. Moving the knob clockwise or counterclockwise just a 1/16" increases or decreases the tension noticeably.But there are good things about this bike. First, the material and workmanship are first rate. I know just by operating the bike that it will last about as long as I will without any problems except maybe for the friction pad which rubs against the wheel to adjust for tension. That will have to be replaced eventually.Now that I have the bike modified/adjusted to suit me, it is a pleasure to ride for long periods of time. And I can’t say enough good things about Anne who sent the new MPH computer as soon as possible.
